Amazing Surfing Stories

Author: Alex Wade

Publisher: *Wiley Nautical

ISBN: 9781119942542

Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 224

View: 9376


An eclectic mix of exciting stories every surfer will love This eclectic mix has something for everyone, from classic tales of monster waves and epic battles to stories of when life among the breakers goes wrong. There are accounts of death and disaster, as well as bravery and triumph. The bizarre and the extreme rub shoulders with perfect breaks and beautiful beaches. Be thrilled by legendary surfers like Laird Hamilton and Shane Dorian as well as learning about local heroes who never made the headlines. Epic battles among pros like Rob Machado and Kelly Slater are recounted alongside stories of weird waves and secret surf spots. There are fascinating encounters with surfing's true characters, men like Dave Rastovich and big wave world record holder Garrett McNamara; appearances by deadly sharks; stories of big wave surfing by night; and an account of how Agatha Christie's famous disappearance for 11 days in December 1926 might just have been because she was on a surf trip. Travel from giants like California's Maverick's and Maui's Jaws to tales of Dungeons, dolphins and the derring-do of a man like Colonel 'Mad Jack' Churchill. Turn the pages to flick between the left and rights of Britain, Europe, USA, Australia and many strange places in between. Each compelling tale has been chosen to stoke the fire of armchair surfers and hardcore wave-riders alike, and some are illustrated with colour photographs.

Amazing Surfing Stories

Author: Alex Wade

Publisher: Fernhurst Books Limited

ISBN: 1118340205

Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 228

View: 7789


This eclectic mix of surfing stories has something for everyone, from classic tales of monster waves and epic battles to stories of when life among the breakers goes wrong. There are accounts of death and disaster, as well as bravery and triumph. The bizarre and the extreme rub shoulders with perfect breaks and beautiful beaches. Be thrilled by legendary surfers, as well as learning about local heroes who never made the headlines. Each compelling tale has been chosen to stoke the fire of armchair surfers and hardcore wave-riders alike, and many are illustrated with colour photographs.

Surfing: A Beginner's Guide

Author: Alf Alderson

Publisher: Fernhurst Books Limited

ISBN: 1912177862

Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 104

View: 8589


Surfing: A Beginner’s Guide has been the go-to surf book for beginners since 1996. This third edition, now with the endorsement of Surfing England, takes you through all the vital steps to become a surfer: you will learn where to surf, when to surf and how to surf safely.You will learn the foundations such as choosing the correct equipment, which is essential to make any progress as a beginner; pre-surf preparation, including getting fit with tips and advice; and your first surfer steps on the beach and in the ocean. All these stages lead up to you catching your very first wave and the surfing bug. The sea is renowned for its beauty, but infamous for its dangers. Alf provides you with transferable skills to safely enjoy your new hobby. Safety features heavily in the book, and you will learn all the basic common-sense aspects of surfing that even the most experienced surfer forgets.

Waves

Author: Tim Baker

Publisher: HarperSports

ISBN: 9780732283308

Category: Short stories, Australian

Page: 288

View: 4100


A collection of surf stories from writers who have shaped the face of Australian surf journalism. This book provides a window into the lifestyle and attitude that is common to all in the surfing world.

The History of Surfing

Author: Matt Warshaw

Publisher: Chronicle Books

ISBN: 1452100942

Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 495

View: 7391


This in-depth, photo-packed look at the history and culture of surfers is “meticulously researched, smartly written . . . required reading” (Outside Magazine). Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw, a former professional surfer and editor of Surfing magazine, has crafted an unprecedented, definitive history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. With more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of Warshaw’s endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who are brought to life in this book in many tales of daring, innovation, athletic achievement, and the offbeat personalities who have made surfing history happen. “The world’s most comprehensive chronicler of the surfing scene.” —Andy Martin, The Independent

Surfer

Author: N.A

Publisher: N.A

ISBN: N.A

Category: Surfing

Page: N.A

View: 5522


The Encyclopedia of Surfing

Author: Matt Warshaw

Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt

ISBN: 9780156032513

Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 788

View: 8484


A pop culture reference of surfing in America today contains 1,500 alphabetical entries and three hundred illustrations to review the activity's most significant contributors, events, equipment, culture, and history. Reprint.

Holism and the Cultivation of Excellence in Sports and Performance

Author: Jesus Ilundain-Agurruza

Publisher: Routledge

ISBN: 1317206347

Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 364

View: 4974


Skillful Striving is a multi-methodological and cross-cultural examination of how we flourish holistically through performative endeavors, e.g., sports, martial and performing arts. Relying primarily on sport philosophy, value theory, phenomenology, philosophy of mind, pragmatism, and East Asian philosophies (Japanese and Chinese), it espouses thick holism. Concerned with an integrative bodymind gradually achieved through performance that aims at excellence, the process of self-cultivation proper of thick holism relies on an ecologically rich epistemic landscape where skills are coupled to virtues in pragmatic contexts. Ultimately, this process results in admirable performances and exemplary character. Japanese dō (practices of self-cultivation) are prominent modes and models of such flourishing. A holistic and radically enactive approach that advances contentless capacities in lieu of representations transparently accounts for the kind of action that characterizes such expert performances. Importantly, these performer-centered endeavors unfold within communities that foster the cultivation of our abilities as lifelong quests for human excellence. Each chapter can be read independently but still forms part of a continuous argumentative and narrative thread. This book was previously published as a special issue of Sport, Ethics and Philosophy.

The Answer is Never

Author: Jocko Weyland

Publisher: Grove Press

ISBN: 9780802139450

Category: Social Science

Page: 354

View: 947


A skating journalist traces the history of skateboarding from its origins in Southern California's beach towns forty years ago, describing his personal experiences of the sport in different cultures throughout the world, its influence on major trends, and its top pioneers. Original.