Barbarian Days

Author: William Finnegan

Publisher: Penguin

ISBN: 0698163745

Category: Biography & Autobiography

Page: 384

View: 7841


**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Summary of William Finnegan's Barbarian Days

Author: Milkyway Media

Publisher: Milkyway Media

ISBN: N.A

Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 125

View: 1988


Please note: This is a companion version & not the original book. Book Preview: #1 I was a haole, or white, kid in a primarily Hawaiian school in Honolulu. The other kids made fun of me, and I didn’t have any friends. I was too scared to say anything. #2 I was sent to Kaimuki Intermediate School, a racially segregated school, where I was bullied and had no friends. I was bored in class, and spent most of my time watching the trees outside for wind direction and strength. #3 I was excited to be in Hawaii, and I was surprised by how little surf there was. The waves were small and darkfaced, and the wind offshore. I was worried about the coral reef off the beach. #4 I paddled west along a shallow lagoon, staying close to the shore, for half a mile. The beach houses ended, and the steep, brushy base of Diamond Head itself took their place across the sand. The reef on my left fell away, revealing a wide channel deep water where no waves broke.

Summary of William Finnegan's Barbarian Days

Author: Everest Media,

Publisher: Everest Media LLC

ISBN: 1669355934

Category: Sports & Recreation

Page: 72

View: 1749


Please note: This is a companion version & not the original book. Sample Book Insights: #1 I was a haole, or white, kid in a primarily Hawaiian school in Honolulu. The other kids made fun of me, and I didn’t have any friends. I was too scared to say anything. #2 I was sent to Kaimuki Intermediate School, a racially segregated school, where I was bullied and had no friends. I was bored in class, and spent most of my time watching the trees outside for wind direction and strength. #3 I was excited to be in Hawaii, and I was surprised by how little surf there was. The waves were small and dark-faced, and the wind offshore. I was worried about the coral reef off the beach. #4 I paddled west along a shallow lagoon, staying close to the shore, for half a mile. The beach houses ended, and the steep, brushy base of Diamond Head itself took their place across the sand. The reef on my left fell away, revealing a wide channel deep water where no waves broke.

Barbarian Days

Author: William Finnegan

Publisher: Hachette UK

ISBN: 1472151402

Category: Biography & Autobiography

Page: 464

View: 3208


Winner of the Pulitzer Price and William Hill Sports Book of the Year: Barbarian Days is a deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer looking for transcendence 'that recalls early James Salter' (Geoff Dyer, Observer) Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. New Yorker writer William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment. 'Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard' Sports Illustrated

Surfing and the Philosophy of Sport

Author: Daniel Brennan

Publisher: N.A

ISBN: 1793640793

Category:

Page: 202

View: 7407


This book considers the unique perspective found in the sport of surfing for reconsidering questions in the philosophy of sport. Through the lens of surfing Brennan explores questions of ethics, aesthetics, gender equality, the nature of sport, Olympism, technology, and the good life.

Wild Cards 18-20: The American Heroes Triad

Author: George R.R. Martin

Publisher: Hachette UK

ISBN: 1473214084

Category: Fiction

Page: 1200

View: 516


There is a secret history of the world - a history in which an alien virus struck the Earth in the aftermath of World War II, endowing a handful of survivors with extraordinary powers. Some were called Aces - those with superhuman mental and physical abilities. Others became Jokers - cursed with bizarre mental or physical disabilities. Some turned their talents to the service of humanity. Others used their powers for evil. Wild Cards is their story. The Wild Cards series returned in 2008 with a brand new trilogy, featuring new heroes and villains and designed to act as an introduction to the world for new readers. The three books collected here tell the stories of a group of Aces chosen to compete on a reality show. But as they find their lives broadcast to the world, some will decide that they can do more with their powers then simply show off on television. Whether they will use those powers for good or ill, though, is another question. This trilogy contains stories by Carrie Vaughn, Walter Jon Williams, Ian Tregillis, Victor Milan, Daniel Abraham, John J. Miller, Melinda Snodgrass and George R. R. Martin himself. Contains WILD CARDS: INSIDE STRAIGHT, WILD CARDS: BUSTED FLUSH, and WILD CARDS: SUICIDE KINGS

Wild Cards: Busted Flush

Author: George R.R. Martin

Publisher: Hachette UK

ISBN: 0575134216

Category: Fiction

Page: 400

View: 4989


The return of the famous shared-world superhero books created and edited by George R. R. Martin, author of A GAME OF THRONES In the six decades since the alien plague known as the Wild Card virus spread a wave of mutations around the globe, humanity has begun to come to terms with its consequences. Grotesque half-human creatures known as 'jokers' inhabit an underworld of their own, while the legendary prodigies known as 'aces' have become real-world superheroes, complete with colourful names and costumes. Now a new generation of aces has taken its place on the world stage, becoming crucial players in international events. At the United Nations, veteran ace John Fortune has assembled a team of young heroes, known as The Committee, to assist at trouble spots around the world - including an invasion of zombies in hurricane-ravaged New Orleans, a freak nuclear explosion in a small Texas town, and a fateful showdown with the forces of the oil-rich Islamic caliphate in the Middle East. But The Committee's opponents have their own aces and jokers ready to do battle, including a Marxist revolutionary, a brutal mercenary, a young boy with apocalyptic powers and - most terrifyingly of all - a sinister arm of the FBI known as SCARE.

The Draw of the Sea

Author: Wyl Menmuir

Publisher: Aurum Press

ISBN: 0711273960

Category: Biography & Autobiography

Page: 304

View: 6465


Wyl Menmuir’s The Draw of the Sea is a book about the fisherman, surfers, swimmers, beachcombers, conservationists, sailors and boatbuilders who make their living on the Cornish Coast. The Draw of the Sea will evoke both the specific and the universal appeal of the sea in the same way that James Rebanks evoked both the specific and the universal in The Shepherd’s Life: A Tale of the Lake District.